4.21.2010

Massive Mangalitsa Bacon

These guys are getting big! These mangalitsa are coming in around 300lbs and the slabs of belly we are getting from Torm barely fit in our smoker. We hung out with this blondie along with the rest of Torm's swallow bellies and reds recently on our farm trip.



We had these two bellies in a dry box cure(basic 1:1:.25 ratio of dextrose, salt, and cure 1) for 13 days then I spent the last two days running to the smoker every 2 hours to check on them. The first day they got some cold mesquite smoke for 12 hours. Today we ran them another 12 hours with some hickory since the mesquite ran out.



I was walking out to the smoker which is in a public area of the hotel by the pool and had people coming up to me every time I went out to check on it to see what we were doing. I had guys coming up asking me all kinds of questions from how to do this at home to where they needed to go tonight to get a taste. BBQ and smokers seem to bring everyone together, I had guys from Montana, England and Germany all standing there admiring the bacon. We talked about the pigs, their recipes, and what we had in store for all of this. With the volcano in Iceland and a big issue with getting flights home for the people overseas we have had a lot of repeat guests and the Pasture Prime Pork is selling! Most people see us as just a fish restaurant which we primarily are but we do meat! I like to think that if you only have 1 beef option, 1 chicken option and 1 pork option that your will do them well.



More bacon just went into a brine of soy, molasses, honey, sugar, salt, and cure 1. In 10 days we will be smoking another round of bacon. Our Lardo d'Arnad is working as well. We used Jason Molinari's base formula of salt, water and cure 1 but changed some components with the hope that we will end up with a truly unique product. We took his ratios and added black garlic for that fermented molasses flavor and our herbs of choice instead of going traditional with sage and rosemary. Hopefully this will carry through and provide us with a more southern theme for our lardo. Funny how we end up using a japanese product to achieve a "southern" flavor profile.

I didn't have my phone with me today or you would have seen a lot more twitpics of the pepperoni Baxter and Cody put together. They got the smoke treatment as well. We also have some going into the chamber for a longer cure. We have lots of pig floating around and we are getting slammed everyday with business but these guys still find a way to keep our charcuterie going. The dedication is amazing and it doesn't just stop at bacon. There are endless elements being worked on constantly. This site is called bluechefs, not bluechef, everyone brings something to the table. I just don't want everyone who visits this site to think that it's what I do, it's what we do.

Scallion Noodle

We had a chef's table dinner upstairs last night and one of the components was scallion noodle. We did the shock, blanch, shock in heavily salted\sugar water, then squeezed the scallion tops, puree with a little H2O, then strain. We used a standard ratio for agar(.8%). We served them on our tasting menu last night as well with wagyu tenderloin, short rib, pickled beat puree, and a sourdough-horseradish sauce.



scallion noodle
-860g scallion puree
-400g water
-45g house creme fraiche
-10.4g agar

mix agar with water and bring to a boil, put in the blender while still hot, add the scallion puree while the blender is running, add the creme fraiche, season with fleur de sel, hot hold this while quickly filling tubes submerged in ice. Use a syringe full of air to pump out the noodles into a pan. Done.

4.16.2010

Our Little Field Trip

We all met early at the restaurant and took off over to Summerfield, Fl and Pasture Prime Wagyu. We were met by Torm and his father who welcomed us and gave us a little introduction and background on the farm. It was a dairy farm until the government regulations forced them to make a choice of rebuild and go into enormous debt or close the dairy. At that point Torm explained that it had already become a soulless production, pumping milk 24\7 just to keep up with the bills. He ended up hating it and what it had become.
Torm left for a while then returned to the farm to start Pasture Prime Wagyu. He began with a high ratio wagyu, a 15/16 breed where as most are 50/50 wagyu and black angus. This high ratio breed of wagyu has a better temperament than the BA mix, almost no issues when calving, high fat ratio, and has a very different long legged look from the BA mix. He raises them on grass alone until they reach around 30 months.



Here is some of the wagyu he brought up by the house for us to look at.



Here is Torm telling us all the benefits of raising these guys on grass alone, no antibiotics, no hormones, nothing.






We moved on to Torms newest acquisition, naked neck chickens. Here the chicks are about 2 weeks, they will require some extra growing time as it takes them a little longer to mature. Instead of 8 weeks these little guys are looking at being around for the next 15 weeks to get them up to weight.



Turkeys!!!!



Along with the naked necks Torm picked up some red bourbon turkeys just in time to get them ready by thanksgiving. In the end these guys should be around 12-13lbs.



ok now on to the pigs. Here is a big blondie, this guy probably comes in around 300lbs and will hang around 220lbs when dressed.


With a simple "here pig" call they all came running. We started pulling up all the grass on our side and feeding them. These mangalitsa are awesome.



Torm continued educating the group and answering all our questions.



We all got in with the pigs and hung out for a while until they all decided to make a run for the mud hole and chase everyone around after they got out.







Here is one of the chase scenes.



The bluezoo crew with Torm on the far right. We can't thank Torm enough for the hospitality and the experience. Everyone is looking at our products differently now. The level of respect for the ingredients just went up ten fold around here. I reccomend taking your crew on similar excursions, it's the best thing we could have done.



Afterward Torm cooked us up some fine wagyu burgers, we had lunch and then broke out the firearms. What's a trip to the farm with out a little target practice.



This one is not mine, just letting everyone know that.



Our marine was up first, you can tell this guy has done this a couple times before.



Everyone had a good time, nothin' like letting off a few rounds to relieve stress.









A good day for the zoo. Come see us and get some of Torm's mangalitsa that is now featured on our menu. We are also curing lots of lardo and gonna get some hams going for the fall.

4.08.2010

some pics



View from our room in the bahamas.



I wish it would of been warmer but the water was still pretty cold when we were there so no diving this time around.



nice sunset at the wedding we attended, The Cove Atlantis is a sick hotel.



Have to eat from a food truck, 4 bucks for conch fritters, can't beat that.



can't go wrong with some chefs garden ramps. Tonight we used them on our first course of the tasting menu which was mero seabass from honolulu fish co., celery root puree, and then the prestine ramps from our friends at chefs garden. By the way, thanks to chefs garden for the nod in the "visit these chefs blogs" section of their spring menu planner.



We just put a new round of bacon in the cure, this time we are going with Kutas' dry box cure ratio of 1c powdered dextrose, 1c salt and 1/4c cure 1 for every 25lbs. it will be intersting to see the difference from our previous cures.



our little mangalitsa friends are coming in on the regular.



Guanciale is curing, we cured and smoked the rest of the head and have been cooking our sea island red peas with generous chunks of smoked face, manga fat back and Col. Bill Newsome ham bones.



Baxter is dreaming of some 18 month country ham here. He's staging at McCrady's right now with Sean. hopefully he had a chance to pick Travis' brain for future charcuterie projects.



The manga belly is ridiculous. So much flavorful fat. It's almost too much to use as fresh belly so we have moved on to curing and smoking our own bacon. I had the best blt of my life with some comte, truffle aioli, manga bacon, tomato, arugula, and some super crusty sourdough.



After curing I smoked it at 130F for 12 hours. It's awesome.



Here is the first manga loin we recieved, you have to cook it with the fat. For an animal with so much fat on it the loin is not very well marbled so it must be treated with care. We do a honey based brine that really helps. The flavor of the meat itself is really earthy. Sous vide works well on tough cuts but a trial run on a loin wrapped in fat back was a failure. Good old high heat and served medium is the way to go for the loin and tenders.



Here is the cooked loin. The fat is super flavorful and very light. It makes me sad when I see plates come back with luscious fat left carved away from the meat. EMBRACE THE FAT PEOPLE! It does take some education in terms of our guests, we let them know what to expect but we have been so conditioned to believe that fat is bad that it's a slow process. Mass consumption pork in America has had the fat bred out of it for the last 40 years and now we are throwing fat in their face so yes it may take a while.



our poussin from palmetto farms in S.C., a great product, 28 days old. we bone the whole bird and stuff a nice chunk of comte in the center. I activa the edges so there is no cheese blowout and we keep a nice creamy center after then are seared between two cast iron pans. We have added leek to our macaire potatoes which has become a staple starch for our chicken dishes and then finish with whatever veg is on hand from chefs garden to hammock hollows. A little english pea puree and jus finish the dish.

3.30.2010

Where to Start

First off it's been a while since my last post and I apologize. We have all these great pictures, videos to post, new menu items, new charcuterie with the addition of our local mangalitsa, and there is just not enough time in the day to spend blogging. Since getting back from the bahamas we have been doing 300 cover a night consistently, throw in a menu change, special dinners, personal issues and some unfortunate recent events it will still be a while before I can really get back into sharing all that we do.
The new menu was postponed but is finally rolling out Thursday 4-1-10, a little late but with the weather so cold we haven't really missed much of the spring veggies. Just in time for consistent english peas, fiddleheads, nettles, morels, and so on. It's been a tough couple weeks with ridiculous business levels, short on cooks, and now even shorter with the absence of Aaron from the kitchen.
For those of you who don't know Aaron he is the chef de cuisine of the restaurant and an integral part of how this kitchen functions. He is the comic relief, a seasoned manager, creative culinarian, spec enforcer, a friend above all and truly dedicated to the restaurant. He was hit by a drunk driver early Saturday morning after a punk show here in Orlando and has been in the hospital since. He's banged up but still in good spirits, cracking jokes even as the fire department and paramedics freed him from being pinned between a car and his motorcycle. I have it on good report that he was giving the Evil Knievil thumbs up on the stretcher as he was being loaded into the ambulance to a crowd of cheering friends that were present. We got a chance to visit with him today and wish him a speedy recovery. After meeting with the chefs on property we figure that we will only need 3 hourly employees to try to replace the work load that Aaron carried day to day. So as you can see this blog will be taking a back seat to the job at hand. We wish Aaron all the best. It's going to be a long road for both he and I in different respects but I would do it a hundred times over for someone in his position. Good luck Aaron, I think a little death metal playing in the kitchen while we prep for the new menu is in order.

3.03.2010

Delayed

Going to be a bit of a delay on the Mangalitsa video. Had some editing and format issues and not enoigh time before I have to go on this trip to get it done. It will be done next week when I get back from my buddy's wedding in the Bahamas.
Other than that our little friend was delivered to the restaurant today. The head alone almost takes up a whole hotel pan. The jowls are ridiculous, the loin has been cleaned, tenderloin removed and was used for an amuse earlier. The ham is giant, skin has been scraped and will be getting an 82c bath for 24 hours then scraped again and dehydrated for cracklin's, the fat back will enter the cure for lardo, belly going into cure as well for a smoked house bacon. Have pics but no time to post, gotta to find my passport which apparently has grown some legs and is not in the usual spot, awesome.

3.01.2010

Wooly/Pasture Prime Pigs

We had the honor of being present for the slaughter of the first ever Florida raised Mangalitsa pig yesterday. We met Torm at South Marion Meats in Summerfield, Fl. This is one of the only USDA certified slaughter houses left in Florida and it just so happens it's about 10 minutes from Torm's farm, Pasture Prime Wagyu. He said he was coming here when he was a kid with his father to have their cows processed and the original owner is still in and out but leaves the everyday operation to his trusted employees, some of who have been there 20 years+.



The proximity of Torm's farm to South Marion Meats reduces the stress on the animals when they are brought in to be processed. There is a staging area where the Mangalitsa had a chance to relax and get one last wallow in the mud. He was then moved into the chute where a .22 caliber round ended it quick and clean. Here is Torm with his Mangalitsa.



This is us lining the wall in the slaughter house watching the hair removal process after being bled, washed, then steeped in a hot water bath @ 150F for 7 minutes, then put into the hair removal machine that rolls the pig around and the hair falls off. Then it's the blow torch treatment, and a final touch up for the feet, ears, and any other bits of hair that need to be removed. Heath Putnam from Wooly Pigs, basically the father of the american mangalitsa movement, let me know what Torm was doing a couple of months ago and we have been looking forward this ever since. Check out Heath's blog and there is a picture of us with the pig, of course Heath is ragging on us for going to this place with our clogs on, really could have used some rain boots. Notice Torm on the end, the only one with boots and a butcher apron, I think he's done this a couple times before. Next time we will be prepared.



The pig started out at 300lbs and ended up at 223lbs after being processed. We moved on to the cold storage area where we got a peak at South marion Meats inventory. There were rows of split cattle, racks of offal, basic production pigs, and lots of curing pork belly and hams waiting to be smoked. When you put 4 chefs in a meat locker this is usually what happens. And yes, Aaron's crappy mustache is back.



We took a lot of video as well that we are in the process of editing. For those of you interested in where your food really comes form this will be posted in the next day or so. Other than the kill shot you will see the entire process from start to finish.